Haute Couture - AW/08

Wow, I can’t believe the couture fall shows have already come and gone and now we wait for the S/S09 shows. Seems like the year has gone real quick and I can’t believe we’re already taking Autumn/Winter trends being that I haven’t quiet experienced and enjoyed summer to my satisfaction. Alot of interesting and exciting looks have emerged from the fall couture collections and one of the best out of the rest for me stands being John Galliano’s couture collection for Christian Dior which was as mouth-watering as ever with a monochromatic colour palette interspersed with icing shades from lilacs and aqua through to lemon yellow and blush pink. I realised the Dior signature New Look oozing out of some of the pieces particularly the gowns and coats in grand proportions with the clinched waistlines and wide belts. I’ve found myself being very fond of the bows that in a way morphed into origami folds, I think that was deeply amazing and the fine pleating on the sheer dresses which came sprinkled and dazzling in silver strands. At Christian Lacroix, bejewelled ensembles boasted on the catwalk with feathered sleeves, bows, layers, ruffles and matching tights to go with the stunning dresses that came in rich shades bursting with colour.

Of course elegance is always at Chanel and Karl maintained that signature style as always topping it off with a surprising modern twist. Though I expected more from Lagerfeld’s collection this time round and much as I loved the Spring Couture collection I didn’t quiet find myself feeling the same way for the Fall couture one, I imagined he would have stepped it up a notch but needless to say anymore, what came out the end product wasn’t that much disappointing at all - It might have just been the set that didn’t work well with the clothes for me. I noticed that Karl has taken into boasting the voluminous sleeves as seen from his S/S Couture collection and on the dress he designed for Anna Wintour which she wore to the Met Costume Institute Gala earlier this year and it is also brought that interesting aspect he has carried forward into Fall, I quiet liked the detailing, pleating and embellished on the garments and a colour palette that brimmed with greys, silver, rosey pink to mauves, magenta and gold.

As for Valentino, Alessandra Facchinetti carries her promise to bring many more years of the house’s signature of feminine elegance including the lunch suits, flowery embroidery and red dresses. The collection varied between flirty ruffles, streamlined silhouettes to sensational cocoon-like silhouettes. Gowns that dripped in daffodil yellow jewels and some with wisps of chiffon that trailed around the legs. Beads shimmered on shoulders bunched like shells stuck in the sand, strapless little numbers and ruffles that gently collapsed from the neckline. Another one of my favourite would have to be Jean Paul Gaultier, who gave a striking collection with cages, frames, corsets and crinolines that came in every shape and form you could possibly dream of. I liked the multiple buckled belts and the caging detail fitted over the dresses and what an excelled choice of colour – explosive neons and brights which I’m strongly feeling at the moment and again the tights that matched the outfit. The wedding dress was mind-boggling and admittedly the most unique of the whole wedding dress attempts and the flamboyant knitted skirts totally rocked my world.

Anne Valerie Hash took her designs to the next level – the future. Audacious jewellery particularly at the neckline and upper body on gracious gowns finely tailored in very soft shades of pink, grey and oyster. Hash created a balance by thinking ahead on wearable couture chic creating a collection that was also both elegant and feminine. Armani’s collection carried the persona of elegance and modern chic and masses of bows and detailing unravelled from the necklines of the models into folds and ripples that translated into the collars and sleeves on the jackets. Sheer was definitely one fabric that was on the plate as also seen at Alexis Mabille, Christian Dior.

At Alexis Mabille was a very graceful and wearable collection and cutesy bib-front dresses that were quiet young, fun and quirky and finally Givenchy – who’s knee high cowboy inspired boots I loved so much; I’ve gotta keep an eye out for or something similar, they reminded me of Balenciaga’s knee high boots from the Fall’08 collection so I’ve been thinking about them for quite a while now. A lot of emphasis was on layers and again I saw that teaming of dresses with matching tights which is a confirmed possible trend for the upcoming season, fring and the biker jacket which is definitely sticking around a while longer. This Givenchy collection seemed less structured though it was certainly more colourful than the previous ones. Though the couture shows are all wrapped up and done, some serious trends have been set for the coming season. I may have been slightly surprised by the direction some of the designers took but overall the couture collections all maintained that aspect of extraordinary, elegant, opulent and continuous beauty which is always looked forward to and was well achieved.